SWEET POTATO FRIES

By Joyce White, author of Soul Food and Brown Sugar

Sweet potato fries are quickly working their way into restaurant menus all over the country as people discover their wonderful taste. They're easy to make at home, just be sure the oil is at the right temperature. If it's too low, the fries will get soggy. If it's too hot, they will burn.

(Makes 4 servings)

• 4 yams or sweet potatoes (orange flesh)
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 3 cups cooking oil
• Sea salt or a mixture of spices such as ground allspice, cinnamon and cayenne

Scrub and rinse the potatoes. Cut away blemishes or sprouts. Peel the potato and cut into 1/2-inch thick slices lengthwise, and cut again lengthwise into strips as for French fries. (You can leave the potatoes unpeeled if desired.) Fill a large bowl with ice cubes and water. Stir in the salt. Add the potatoes and let soak for at least 30 minutes. Drain and pat dry with paper toweling.

Preheat the oil in a deep heavy pot or skillet until it reaches 365°F on a deep-fry thermometer. Add a handful of the potatoes strips at a time to the hot oil and cook for 4 or 5 minutes or until golden brown and tender, turning over with long-handled tongs as they fry.

Remove the potatoes from the oil, drain on paper toweling and keep warm in a 250°F oven while you fry the remaining potatoes strips. If desired, sprinkle lightly with the salt or spice mixture before serving.

Note: For oven fried sweet potatoes, preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut the potatoes into strips or spears about 1-inch wide. Pour the oil into the skillet or roasting pan and heat in the oven, on the lower shelf, for about 5 minutes, or until rippling and hot. Remove the pan from the oven and place in the potatoes, trying not to crowd the pan, so as to prevent the potatoes from steaming.

Bake the potatoes about 20 minutes, then turn over with a metal spatula, and roast for another 15 to 20 minutes, or until they are golden all over and edges are browned, turning again if necessary to prevent burning. Sprinkle the potatoes with a little coarse salt if desired, and keep warm until serving. Makes 4 servings.

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