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GULF COAST GUMBO

By Joyce White, author of Soul Food and Brown Sugar

This legendary Southern dish is a deep, rich stew that contains different meats and fishes that are bound together by a thickening agent called a roux. The passion for gumbo is so deep in the South that contests are held regularly to ferret out the best Gumbo cooks. This recipe by Joyce White can compete among the best.

(Makes 4 servings)

  • 3 pounds medium-sized chicken thighs and legs
  • 1/2 cup peanut or corn oil
  • 1/2 pound smoked sausage or ham, cut into one-inch cubes (optional)
  • 2 large red or green bell peppers, or one of each, cored and chopped
  • 1 large yellow onions, sliced
  • 2 celery ribs, diced
  • 3 to 4 cloves garlic, crushed
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley or fresh basil
  • 1 teaspoon hot pepper flakes, more if desired
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme or
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons dried thyme, crushed
  • 1/2 cup all-purpose or unbleached flour
  • 1 14-ounce can diced tomatoes with juice
  • 4 bay leaves
  • 1 tablespoon salt, or to taste
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 5 to 6 cups hot fish stock (see recipe below)
  • 2, 10-ounce packages whole frozen okra
  • 2 pounds medium-sized shrimp, shelled*
  • 2 or 3 cups shucked oysters
  • 1/2 to 1 pound crabmeat, depending on taste
  • 1 or 2 tablespoons gumbo file, if desired

* Note: save the shells to make fish stock; recipe below

Trim any excess fat from the chicken and discard. Using a large heavy pot (at least 6 quarts), heat 1/4 cup of the oil. Add 3 or 4 pieces of chicken to the pot and brown all over from 8 to 10 minutes, turning frequently. When browned, remove the chicken from the pot to a platter and continue browning the remaining pieces the same way.

When all the chicken is browned, reduce the heat under the pan to medium low. Stir in the sausage or ham, the bell peppers, onion, celery, garlic, parsley or basil, hot pepper flakes and thyme to the pot. Sauté over low heat until the onions are soft and translucent and the bell pepper is tender, about 8 minutes. Remove the sautéed ingredients from the pot and set aside.

To make the roux, add the remaining 1/4 cup oil to the pot and stir in the flour, mixing briskly with a wire whisk. Cook the flour-oil mixture over moderate low heat for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring constantly, or until the flour turns the shade of a walnut or peanut, but not deep brown. Watch carefully and don't allow the flour to burn. (If the flour burns, discard and start over again.)

Return the sausage or ham and vegetables back to the pot. Then, stir in the tomatoes with the tomato juice; bay leaves, salt and pepper.

Bring to a boil, stirring briskly, breaking up the tomatoes into small pieces with a large spoon or tongs, and cook over high heat for 3 or so minutes. Immediately reduce the heat to low and cook the sauce 30 minutes longer, uncovered, stirring occasionally.

Stir the hot fish stock into the pot until well combined, then the browned chicken. If the gumbo sauce is bubbling, reduce the heat a bit. Cook the chicken uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 40 minutes to 1 hour or until the liquid thickens to the consistency of heavy maple syrup and the chicken is just about done. (Cut a piece of chicken to the bone and check to see if the juices run clear.)

Stir the okra into the pot and cook for about 5 or so minutes or until tender, but not gooey. Then add the shrimp, and oysters and cook, stirring gently from time to time, over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the shrimp are pink and tender.

Taste the gumbo and add more salt, black pepper or hot pepper flakes, and the gumbo file, if desired. Stir in the crabmeat and heat thoroughly. If you prefer the gumbo thinner, heat a cup or so of the remaining fish stock and stir into the pot. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Note: If available, fresh okra can also be used. Cook for about 10 minutes then add the seafood.



FISH STOCK

  • 2 shells from two pounds medium-size shrimp
  • 1 onion, sliced
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
  • 2 celery ribs, cut into 1" pieces

Rinse the shrimp shells thoroughly, drain, and place in a 3-quart pot. Add 7 cups of water. Turn the heat to high and bring to a boil. Cover, then reduce the heat to low and simmer the mixture for 30 minutes. Pour stock through a fine-mesh sieve and discard the solids.

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